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Check all things below before driving the car as rose tinted glasses have an effect
If you are definitely going to get one buy the Bible by Steve Heath
Its generally thought better to try /check a few "S" cars before buying one, the problem with that is after checking four or five you realise the first one was a good one and it's now sold. A better method is to join the TVRCC and attend some meets where you can talk to current owners, and they will point you in the right direction. They might even attend a viewing with you.
If your still unsure about buying one by yourself you can always get a specialist* to inspect it for you, cost a bit for the inspection but well worth it, or you can buy from a reputable dealer
*specialist does not mean AA or RAC but the likes of Rob Ingleby etc
Visit the "S" forum on Pistonheads for up to date contacts, and the PH classifieds usually has quite a few "S" cars for sale
Checklist
1. Check the chassis, this is probably the most important check to make ,if its rotten full body removal can be required to repair at a cost of up to approx £3k.
One of the main items to look at are the outriggers, trailing arms and rear seat belt mount, these can be easily overlooked as they are not very accessible. Get the car up in the air on axle stands or a post lift if possible, and have a very good look, the rust on the chassis usually shows up on the top rather than the bottom.
 This picture shows where abouts on the car to find two of the major weak spots for rust on the chassis ,namely the "outriggers" and "seat belt mount" |
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| My outrigger |
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| Trailing arm pics |
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| Near perfect outrigger |
Don't worry if your outriggers don't look like "near perfection" most wont, they probably have been repainted and coated in waxoyl or similar. So long as there solid there fine preferably they will be covered in waxoyl or similar.
Also pay particular attention to the rear trailing arms, the seat belt mounts and the general area around where the radiator sits and the bonnet hinge.
2. Check all indicators, headlights, taillights interior lights, fog lights and switches etc work, and neither of the headlights are cracked or holed.
3. Check the alarm and/or the immobiliser works and all certificates are available or at least in invoice of work being done. Could prove quite dear as many insurance companies insist on seeing the certificate or other evidence. There are many different types of immobiliser and alarms fitted so I cant say how they should work.
4. Check the log book/history file for any major gaps and check the service reports as these tend to inform of work than needs to be done. So on older service reports check work was done, on newer reports find out how much it will cost to do. Also check front and rear number plates have same dealer name, it might point to it having had a shunt. Also check there are invoices, to back up the log book and any work claimed, these can get lost in house moves etc and the condition in which they are kept. I.E. are they stuffed into and envelope or a nice A4 ring binder, this can tell you a lot about the owner.
5. Check the general condition of the car, i.e. is the dash all peeling or cracking are the carpets ok, is the paintwork severely "crazed" and stone chipped, are the seats in good condition. Generally make sure you are happy with the general condition.
6. Check the wheels for damage, the "S" was generally built using four types of wheel
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The Oz slotted which was meant to be fitted to the earlier cars but I have seen them on V8S car so they probably are fitted to all sorts |
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The Oz eight spoke which is a very popular choice (biased opinion here) for fitting to the "S" throughout its life. Becoming difficult to source replacements now |
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The Chimera five spoke which was fitted to S4 and V8S although it could also be found on S3 knowing TVR. Fairly easy to find replacements as there are many on the Chimera which tend to get up graded |
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The Oz racing was fitted to the latter cars as well, they look superb when fully clean but can be difficult to clean and keep clean |
7. Check the seals around the door and window, they should all be in good condition
8. Check the steering for excessive play by
A) Try pushing/pulling the steering wheel towards you when sitting in the drivers seat any play in this direction will mean the bulkhead bearing is worn, not to dear to put right though. When refitting use a roller bearing they are much better.
B) Try turning the wheel from left to right, there should be very little play before you feel resistance. Any play could be due to worn universal joints or the steering rack is worn.
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9. Check the windscreen for damage and delaminating. Delaminating can be seen by a white appearance around the edge. Not to much of a problem but does not look nice. |
10. Check the running temp. The V6 engine should be at 90°C at all times whilst the V8 should be 90°C it can rise to 100°C at an alarming rate do not worry if it runs slightly cooler. Make sure the fan cuts in
11. Check the oil pressure the V6 should be 50-70psi and the V8 30-40psi. Also have a quick check of the condition of the oil by taking of the filler cap and making sure there is no emulsified oil around, could be a sign of a blown head gasket. Check the oil level and the condition of the oil on the dipstick, is it clear or black the latter suggests its been running hot.
12. Check the doors haven't dropped, this is a typical thing that happens. Not the end of the world as its not usually a costly repair, but can be a severe pain in the neck to fix.
13. Check the wipers work, they wont be brilliant but they should function of sorts. "S" series cars are known for having poor wipers so don't panic if yours aren't to good.
14. Check the roof for damage particularly around the rear plastic screen and the stitching for the rear screen is intact and not falling apart
15. Check the windows raise and lower and the electric wing mirrors work.
16. Check the footwells for ingress of water by lifting the carpets up, this only shows if there is a leak not where it is. This is particularly important in the passenger footwell as this is where the electrics are situated.
17. Check all tools and roof panel bags are there as well as the spare wheel and jack
18. Check the exhaust the vast majority of original ones are well over 12 years old by now, so probably have cracks in various places. The manifolds too have a tendency to crack as well. A stainless steel system is far better for enduring the bumps and scrapes of modern day driving.
19. Check the tyres have the same type (brand) on each axle, and are in good condition and Legal
20. Check for overspray it could cover a repair although common for noses to get re-sprays its not to common for the rear, so if you see overspray have a good look at that area
21.Check the battery is the correct size minimum 580 CCA but preferable to have 630 CCA
The Test Drive
1. Check the steering is precise and "tight" when travelling at normal road speed very little movement in the steering is required to change direction.
2. Check the voltmeter has risen from about 12.5v with engine off, to approx 13.5 to 14v with engine running, check the fuel gauge gives a reading, and both oil pressure and engine oil pressure read correctly
3. Check each gear engages properly, reverse can be a bugger, I found engaging 5th first is easier also check where the clutch bites as TVR's eat clutches 50k is typical life especially on the V8.
4. Check the tools, spare tyre and roof bags are in the boot and does the boot open properly.
5. Check the brakes are ok not spongy or binding.
Things Not To Bother About
Seat belts that jam when putting them on, strange rattles etc, this is common to all "S" series cars
Note:- none of the above on its own should stop you buying your "S" its just a question of price and are you prepared to get /do the work. Numerous faults point to it being a dog and your probably better of walking away.
Visit this page for identifying the differences between the models
Happy shopping
Please note this guide is intended as a guide only the author can not accept responsibility if you buy a lemon
